| |
SEED
SOWING INSTRUCTIONS:
To ensure optimum germination results
1. Always use a good quality
seed raising mix that contains a balance of the
following :
- Pumice for good drainage
- Peat or bark to hold moisture
- Beneficial fungi such as trichoderma to help
prevent soil borne diseases
- pH within 6-6.5 range with a quality NPK
fertilizer
2. Never sow seeds too deeply.
As a general rule, very fine seed should be left
uncovered, fine seed should be barely covered
and larger seed should be sown no deeper than
twice its diameter.
3. Maintain even moisture levels
during germination and seedling stages. Never
allow seed mix to dry out or to become waterlogged
as this can lead to disease problems such as damping
off.
4. Be vigilant of low light
levels and low night temperatures.
5. Most seed requires warmth
to germinate. If attempting to germinate heat-
loving varieties such as peppers/chillies, tomatoes,
melons or eggplants a constant high temperature
is the key. This can best be achieved by using
an electrical heat pad. Some seed requires a cold
period of stratification to break dormancy. For
full information on specific varieties refer to
appropriate listing in the catalogue.
Most important reasons for good germinating seeds
that fail to grow:
• Seeds sown too deeply
• Soil not firmed around seeds
• Soil temperature too low or too high
• Over-watering
• Pre-emergent damping off (common soil-borne
fungal) disease
• Contaminated soil
• Garden pests such as slugs, snails, cats
and ants
DEFINITIONS:
| Annual
|
A plant that completes its entire
life cycle (germinates, produces seeds, dies)
in one season. It may self-sow, thereby giving
the impression of being perennial. |
| |
|
| Biennial |
A plant that completes its entire life cycle
in two years - growing in the first, reproducing
and dying in the second. Usually, but not
always, producing flowers only in the second
year. |
| |
|
| Perennial |
A plant that can live for more than two
years, surviving the winter and flowering
each year from the second season
(see individual instructions). |
| |
|
| Tender |
A plant that will not survive frost. |
| |
|
| Hardy |
A plant that will survive frost. |
| |
|
| Hybrid |
A plant resulting from a cross between two
parent plants
giving a genetically superior plant. The same
parents are used to produce more seed. Normally
seed saved from hybrids does not grow true
to type. |
| F1 |
The first generation of such a cross. |
| |
|
| Open pollinated |
Natural cross between plants of the same
variety. Refers to non-hybrid seeds or plants. |
| |
|
| Heirloom |
Original pre-1960’s open pollinated
strains selected for garden performance (flavour,
long harvest). |
| |
|
| Viability |
The ability of seeds to germinate. |
| |
|
| Bolting |
Going to seed. Premature formation of a
seed stalk. |
| |
|
| Determinate |
Growth stopped by development of terminal
flower buds. A dwarf/bush variety which sets
fruit in a concentrated period. |
| |
|
| Indeterminate |
Growth continuing indefinitely when leaf
buds are formed at the tip of the growth.
Varieties that have to be staked and continue
to set fruit until frost. |
| |
|
| pH |
A measurement for the acidity/alkalinity
of soil, needed for nutrient availability
and microbial activity. |
| |
|
| NPK |
Basic nutrient needs of plants:
Nitrogen (N)- for green growth, healthy soil
and microbial activity.
Phosphorus (P) - for flower, fruit and seed
production; vigorous roots and disease resistance.
Potassium (K) - essential for all building
and the quality and size of fruit. |
| |
|
| Scarification |
The practice of scratching or notching
the seed coat to hasten germination. Usually
applies to hard coated seed. |
| |
|
| Stratification |
Chilling seeds to promote germination by
breaking dormancy. |
| |
|
| Cotyledon |
The seed leaves or first leaves that emerge
from a germinated seed, different in form
from the later true leaves. |
GUIDELINES
FOR SPROUTING SEEDS:
Start by measuring 2-3 tablespoons of seed into
a 92mm Agee or Mason preserving jar.
Half fill the jar with water and leave to soak
for 10 minutes. Large seeds like Snow Peas are
best left to soak initially for up to 4 hours
but no longer than 20 hours.
Screw on your sprouting lid, invert the jar and
drain the water off thoroughly. Keep the jar in
a cool place out of direct sunlight.
Rinse twice a day and drain well. NB: Soaking
on a daily basis is not necessary.
After 3-5 days when the sprouts are nearly ready
to eat, place the jar in the light for a day.
The leaves will green up due to the formation
of chlorophyll that adds to the nutritional value
of the sprouts.
When your sprouts have reached the required size,
place them on a paper towel to absorb excess moisture
and then store in an airtight container in the
fridge. They will keep quite happily for 7-10
days.
REASONS FOR UNSUCCESSFUL SPROUTING:
Soaking seeds for too long or too short a period.
Soak for shorter periods in summer than in winter.
Damaging sprouts with high-pressure watering or
vigorous shaking.
Inadequate drainage causing sprouts to become
waterlogged and rot. Gelatinous seeds grown in
flat dishes need to be kept moist but not soaked.
Inadequate watering causing dehydration.
Leaving sprouts in the sun.
GROWING
INSTRUCTIONS FOR GIANT PUMPKINS:
• Select growing site and dig in lots
of well-rotted manure to form a growing mound.
• Do not sow seeds until all dangers of
frost have passed.
• Protect young seedlings from wind damage.
• Allow vine to run and set fruit. Burying
the vine helps to anchor the plant in position
and will allow the plant to put down additional
roots from each leaf axil.
• Thin fruit to 1-2 per vine.
• Seat fruit on a bed of straw, newspaper
or styrofoam to avoid bottom rot.
• Consider a spray programme that includes
a liquid fertilizer and powdery mildew fungicide.
• Avoid excessive nitrogen.
• Water regularly over the summer months.
• Place fruit in upright position if possible
to achieve better shape.
• Support the vine around the fruit to avoid
it twisting or snapping.
Harvest fruit when vine dies away leaving a 15-30cm
stem on the pumpkin. See also First Prize.
WILDFLOWER
GROWING IDEAS
If Wildflower blends are planted in a weedy area,
there will be a large bank of weed seeds that
will germinate and compete. Weed control is achieved
in two stages – initial clearing of the
site and ongoing maintenance. Follow these steps
for greater success:
- Prepare the soil for sowing by removing unwanted
vegetation. Lightly till, or rough up surface
of soil. Do not dig deep as this encourages
weed seeds. Allow new weed seeds to come away
after cultivating, then remove again before
sowing by burning, steaming or spraying.
- Choose appropriate seed blend for the site.
Wildflowers are not gross feeders and don’t
require large amounts of fertilizer. However,
a dusting of lime at a rate of .5kg-1kg per
m2 is helpful to unlock soil nutrients and make
them more readily available to plants.
- Mix seeds with an inert carrier like damp
sand, sawdust, or pumice - 1 part seed to 15-20
parts carrier and hand broadcast in a systematic
fashion. Gently rake in but do not cover the
seed too deeply (1cm)
- Wildflower seeds require water to germinate
but once established can survive with very low
rainfall. Keep lightly moist for 4-6 weeks.
Best time to sow spring and autumn.
- A regular program of weed control is essential
to establish the wildflowers as the dominant
species. Weeds should be eliminated as soon
as they can be recognized either by pulling
out, spot spraying with a general herbicide,
or selective cutting with a line trimmer.
- Irrigate when possible through spring and
summer.
- Mow or cut in autumn to tidy site and scatter
seeds. Consider over sowing to introduce new
varieties at this stage
|
|
